Connecting Headphones to the TV

An Overview of the Four Paths

Before we get into menus and cables, it’s essential to take a look at the connections. The key factors are what connections the TV has and whether it can transmit audio wirelessly. The following overview categorizes the four options based on what the device must be capable of.

If your TV no longer has a headphone jack and doesn't transmit audio via Bluetooth, you can use a transmitter or a base station connected to the optical output.

The two wireless options differ primarily in terms of latency and range. Wired connections offer both without compromise, but they restrict freedom of movement. If you already own Bluetooth headphones, you should consider the first two options in the table. If you don’t have any yet and value ease of use above all else, you should take a closer look at the third option.

Connect Headphones via Bluetooth

With newer devices, this is usually the standard procedure. The pairing process consists of two steps in a fixed order. The headphones must essentially be “visible,” and then the TV will search for them. It doesn’t work the other way around because the TV can only find devices that are active at that moment. There’s also a special case that accounts for most failed attempts.

1. Start the pairing mode on the headphones

The headphones must be set to pairing mode. Typically, this is done by pressing and holding the on/off button or a dedicated Bluetooth button until an indicator light flashes or a voice prompt is heard.

2. Search for the device on the TV

On the TV, the pairing option is located in the settings. It’s usually found under “Sound,” “Audio Output,” or “Connections.” Selecting this option launches a search that lists the available devices. When the headphones appear, select them and confirm the connection. Some devices will ask for confirmation on the headphones themselves, which is usually done by briefly pressing a button.

After that, the audio output may not necessarily be routed to the headphones yet. On many devices, you must also switch the output from the internal speakers to the paired device. The next time you turn the device on, the headphones will usually connect automatically.

If sound is still coming from the TV even though the headphones are connected, the audio is either still being output in parallel or is being sent to the wrong device. Some models display a list of multiple paired devices, from which the active one can be selected individually.

The TV has no sound

A Bluetooth icon on the packaging does not indicate whether the TV transmits audio. On many models, the feature is intended solely for use with the remote control, a keyboard, or other accessories. Audio transmission requires an audio profile. In the Bluetooth standard, the relevant profile is called A2DP. You can check with absolute certainty whether a TV has this profile by consulting the TV’s fact sheet or user manual. If “Bluetooth Audio” or “A2DP” is listed there, the transmission capability is available.

Retrofit a transmitter or use wireless headphones

If the device lacks a transmission function, it can be retrofitted. Common options include a retrofitted transmitter or a wireless system with its own station. The two differ more significantly than they might at first glance. One solution adds Bluetooth to the device, while the other bypasses it entirely.

Bluetooth Transmitter on the Audio Output

A Bluetooth transmitter plugs into one of the TV’s audio outputs and turns it into a device capable of transmitting audio. It connects via the headphone jack, RCA jacks, or the optical output. It is usually powered via USB. (Often, a USB port on the TV is sufficient, but depending on the model, a separate power adapter may be useful.)

The device is then paired not with the TV, but with the transmitter. When making a purchase, there are two aspects to pay particular attention to: first, whether the transmitter supports low-latency codecs, and second, whether it can power two headphones at the same time. It’s also important that the transmitter and headphones support the same codec.

A note about the connection: If the transmitter is plugged into the headphone jack, the TV remote control will usually still control the volume. The optical output, on the other hand, often has a fixed volume level. If this is the case, the volume is controlled directly on the headphones themselves.

Wireless headphones with a base station

Another option does away with Bluetooth entirely. Wireless headphones come with their own base station, which plugs into the audio output and transmits on its own frequency. No pairing is required with the TV, which significantly shortens and simplifies the setup process.

Such systems often have a longer range than Bluetooth and operate with less latency. The dock usually doubles as a charging cradle, so the headphones are neatly stored and charged between uses. The only downside: the headphones and dock are designed to work exclusively together. You generally can’t connect a different pair of headphones to it.

Connecting Headphones with a Cable

Using a cable is considered old-fashioned, but it has two key advantages.

1. There is no delay between the video and the audio.
2. A rechargeable battery also cannot run out of power.

However, the cable restricts freedom of movement.

Headphone jack

The 3.5-millimeter jack is the simplest option. Just plug in your headphones, and you’re done. The TV controls the volume. On flat-screen TVs, however, the jack is often hard to reach on the back, or it may be missing entirely on newer models. An extension cable can help, but it shouldn’t be too thin, or you may experience static.

Another issue concerns the volume. The TV controls the volume at the headphone jack. On some devices, this control operates independently of the speaker volume control. If the sound suddenly becomes very quiet or very loud when you switch the connection, the cause is usually to be found here.

Optical Output

The optical output carries a digital signal. It can therefore only be used in conjunction with a transmitter or base station that converts the signal. This is the most common source of error in wireless connections:

If the TV's audio output is set to a multichannel format, the connected device usually cannot communicate with it. The result is "no sound" or static. Switching to PCM in the audio menu resolves this in most cases, because this format is supported almost everywhere.

If the sound is still too quiet

Some TVs have a line-out jack instead of a headphone jack. Sometimes both are present and can be difficult to tell apart. The line-out jack provides a fixed output level for amplifiers and does not allow for volume control. Headphones plugged directly into it will remain quiet. Even the remote control won’t help. In that case, your only options are to use the actual headphone jack or a device with its own amplifier.

When the Picture and Sound Are Out of Sync

Wireless transmission takes time. When sound is digitized, transmitted, and converted back, a delay occurs relative to lip movements. The extent of this delay often depends on the transmission method and what is currently playing.

It is not possible to specify a fixed value. It depends on the television, the transmission method, and the technology used, and can even vary between two broadcasts.

How Latencies Occur

Bluetooth is particularly dependent on the TV, transmitter, headphones, and codec in this context. Low-latency methods can reduce the delay, but they must be supported by both the transmitter and the headphones. If this mutual support is lacking, the connection falls back to a different method. Wireless links via a base station are generally not an issue in this regard.

The misalignment is particularly noticeable in close-up shots of faces. In music, sports, or studio news broadcasts, the same misalignment is much less noticeable because the viewer doesn't have lips to compare it to.

Settings

Many TVs include a setting for audio delay in the sound menu, often labeled “Audio Delay” or “AV Sync.” This allows you to manually adjust the timing. It makes sense to adjust this setting using a scene in which someone is clearly visible and speaking. Keep in mind that the setting usually applies only to the output currently in use. If you switch between headphones and speakers, you may need to readjust the value. The simplest solution here is a practical one: turn everything off and then turn it back on in the correct order—external devices first, and the TV last.

If you want others in the room to be able to hear

As soon as headphones are connected, most TVs mute their own speakers. This isn't a problem for a single person. But if someone is sitting next to you, that person won't be able to hear anything. That's exactly where the headphone solution often falls short in everyday life.

This applies precisely to the situation in which headphones are most commonly used with the TV: one person has more trouble understanding the dialogue than the other and therefore turns up the volume, which becomes unpleasant for the rest of the people in the room.

Two channels for audio on both sides

Some TVs offer an option in the audio menu to output sound simultaneously through both the speakers and headphones. The same effect can be achieved even better and more efficiently using two separate outputs: The speakers or soundbar continue to play, while a device connected to the optical output or the headphone jack also picks up the signal.

The OSKAR TV voice amplifier provides the perfect solution to this problem. The base station plugs into the TV’s optical output or headphone jack and transmits the audio wirelessly to a portable device. No pairing via menus is required. Depending on the TV and the selected output, the TV can continue playing for everyone else in the room. Anyone who has trouble hearing the sound—or even just the dialogue—can adjust the volume and speech filter on their own device without everyone else having to turn up the volume.