Connecting Headphones to the TV
Anyone wishing to connect headphones to a television has several options depending on the device. Modern TVs transmit sound via Bluetooth, while older ones require a transmitter or a cable. The right path is often determined by the ports on the back of the TV and the options available in the device menu.
One particular aspect frequently leads to misunderstandings: a Bluetooth logo on the TV does not automatically mean that the TV can also transmit sound to headphones. The decisive factor is whether the device supports Bluetooth audio or an audio profile such as A2DP.
Overview of the Four Methods
Before diving into menus and cables, checking the connections is mandatory. The key factors are which ports the TV has and whether it can transmit sound wirelessly. The following overview categorizes the four possibilities according to the requirements of the device.
| Method | TV Requirement | Delay | Setup |
|---|---|---|---|
| Direct Bluetooth | Bluetooth transmission capability | Noticeable depending on codec | Pairing in menu |
| Retrofitted Bluetooth Transmitter | Jack, RCA, or optical output | Noticeable depending on codec | Pairing on transmitter |
| Wireless Headphones with Base Station | Jack or optical output | Usually low | Usually pre-configured |
| Cable | Headphone jack | Virtually imperceptible | Plug in |
If you no longer have a headphone jack and your TV does not transmit sound via Bluetooth, a transmitter or a base station connected to the optical output can provide a solution.
The two wireless methods differ primarily in delay and range. Cable connections provide both without compromise but restrict freedom of movement. If you already own Bluetooth headphones, you should check the first two options in the table. If you do not have any yet and primarily value ease of use, you should take a closer look at the third option.
Connecting Headphones via Bluetooth
For newer devices, this is usually the standard method. Pairing consists of two steps in a fixed order. The headphones must effectively become visible, and then the TV searches for them. It does not work the other way around because the TV only finds devices that are active at that moment. Additionally, there is a special case that causes most failed attempts.
1. Start Pairing Mode on the Headphones
The headphones must be put into pairing mode. This is typically done by pressing and holding the power button or a dedicated Bluetooth button until an indicator light flashes or a voice prompt is heard.
2. Search for the Device on the TV
On the TV, pairing is located in the settings. It is usually found under Sound, Audio Output, or Connections. A search starts there, listing available devices. Once the headphones appear, they are selected and the connection is confirmed. Some devices require confirmation on the headphones, which is usually done by a short button press.
After that, audio output is not necessarily routed to the headphones yet. On many devices, the output must also be switched from the internal speakers to the paired device. The next time you turn them on, the headphones will usually connect automatically.
If sound continues to come from the TV even though the headphones are connected, the output is still running in parallel or on the wrong device. Some models list several paired devices, from which the active one must be selected individually.
TV Does Not Transmit Sound
A Bluetooth symbol on the packaging says nothing about whether the TV transmits audio. On many models, the function is used exclusively for the remote control, a keyboard, or other accessories. Audio transmission requires an audio profile. In the Bluetooth standard, the relevant profile is called A2DP. You can determine with certainty whether a TV has this by checking the fact sheet or the TV’s operating manual. If it says Bluetooth Audio or A2DP, the transmission capability is present.
Retrofitting a Transmitter or Using Wireless Headphones
If the transmission function is missing, the TV can be retrofitted. Common solutions for this are a retrofitted transmitter or a wireless system with its own station. Both differ more significantly than it might appear at first glance. One solution brings Bluetooth to the device, while the other bypasses it entirely.
Bluetooth Transmitter at the Audio Output
A Bluetooth transmitter is plugged into an audio output of the TV, turning it into a device capable of transmitting. It is connected via the headphone jack, RCA, or the optical output. It usually draws power via USB. (A USB port on the TV is often sufficient for this, but depending on the model, a separate power supply unit may also be useful.)
Pairing is then performed with the transmitter rather than the TV. When purchasing, two aspects should be particularly noted: whether the transmitter supports low-latency codecs and whether it can supply two pairs of headphones simultaneously. It is also important that the transmitter and headphones support the same codec.
A note on connection: If the transmitter is connected to the jack, the TV remote usually continues to control the volume. In contrast, a fixed level is often present at the optical output. If this is the case, the volume is adjusted on the headphones themselves.
Wireless Headphones with Base Station
Another method completely dispenses with Bluetooth. Wireless headphones are equipped with their own base station, which is connected to the audio output and transmits on its own frequency. No pairing is required on the TV, which significantly shortens and simplifies the setup.
Such systems often achieve greater ranges than Bluetooth and operate with lower delay. The station usually serves as a charging cradle at the same time, so the headphones are tidied up and charged between two evenings. The only disadvantage: the headphones and station belong together permanently. Another pair of headphones cannot usually be connected to it.
Connecting Headphones via Cable
The cable method is considered old-fashioned but has two decisive advantages.
- There is no offset between picture and sound.
- A battery cannot run out either.
However, the cable restricts freedom of movement.
Headphone Jack
The 3.5 mm jack is the most direct way. Plug in the headphones, and you’re done. The TV controls the volume. On flat devices, however, the jack is often located in a hard-to-reach position on the back or is missing entirely on newer models. An extension cable provides a solution but should not be too thin, as interference noise may otherwise occur.
Another point concerns the volume. The TV controls it at the headphone jack. On some devices, this control is separate from the one for the speakers. If the sound is suddenly very quiet or very loud when switching, the cause must usually be sought here.
Optical Output
The optical output has a digital signal. It can therefore only be used in conjunction with a transmitter or a base station that converts the signal. This is the most common source of error with wireless connections:
If the TV’s audio output is set to a multi-channel format, the connected device usually cannot communicate with it. The result is “no sound” or noise. Switching to PCM in the sound menu solves this in most cases, as this format is supported almost everywhere.
When the Sound Remains Too Quiet
Some TVs have a Line-Out instead of a headphone output. Sometimes both are present and difficult to distinguish. The Line-Out provides a fixed level for amplifiers and no adjustable volume. Headphones connected directly to it remain quiet. Even the remote control will not help. In this case, the only solution is to use the actual headphone output or a device with its own amplifier.
When Picture and Sound Are Out of Sync
Wireless transmission takes time. When sound is digitized, transmitted, and converted back, an offset to the lip movements occurs. The severity of this often depends on the transmission path and what is currently playing.
A fixed value cannot be specified. It depends on the TV, the transmission path, and the method used, and can even differ between two programs.
How Latencies Occur
Bluetooth is particularly dependent on the TV, transmitter, headphones, and codec here. Low-latency methods can shorten the offset but must be supported on both the transmitter and headphone side. If this mutual support is missing, the connection falls back to another method. Radio frequency links via a base station are usually uncritical in this regard.
The offset becomes particularly noticeable with close-up faces. With music, sports, or news from the studio, the same value is much less noticeable because the eye has no lips to compare there.
Settings
Many TVs include a setting for audio delay in the sound menu, often under names like Audio Delay or AV Sync. This allows the offset to be manually compensated. It is useful to synchronize during a scene where someone is clearly visible speaking. Note that the setting usually only applies to the output currently in use. If you switch between headphones and speakers, you may need to adjust the value again. The simplest solution here is pragmatic: turn it off and turn it back on in the correct order – external devices first, then the TV.
When Others in the Room Want to Listen Along
As soon as headphones are connected, most TVs switch off their own speakers. For one person alone, this is not a problem. If someone is sitting next to them, that person will then hear nothing. This is exactly where the headphone solution often fails in everyday life.
This affects precisely the situation in which headphones are most frequently needed for the TV: one person understands dialogue less clearly than the other and therefore turns the volume up, which becomes unpleasant for the rest of the room.
Two Ways for Sound on Both Sides
Some TVs offer an option in the sound menu for simultaneous output via speakers and headphones. The same effect can be achieved even better and more optimally via two separate outputs: the speakers or the soundbar continue to run, while a transmitter at the optical output or the jack additionally taps the signal.
The OSKAR TV speech amplifier solves this problem optimally. The base station is plugged into the optical output or the jack of the TV and transmits the sound wirelessly to a portable device. Pairing via menus is not necessary. Depending on the TV and the selected output, the TV can continue to run for others in the room. Those who have difficulty understanding the sound or just the dialogue can adjust the volume and speech filter on their own device without everyone else having to listen louder.
Frequently Asked Questions
Not every TV with Bluetooth can transmit sound to headphones. Some devices use Bluetooth only for the remote control, keyboard, or accessories. The decisive factor is whether the TV supports Bluetooth audio. The data sheet or menu will then usually say Bluetooth Audio, Headphones, Audio Device, or A2DP.
Often, the pairing mode on the headphones has already expired, as it frequently remains active for only a few minutes. Just as often, the headphones are still connected to another device such as a smartphone and therefore remain invisible. If the device list on the TV remains empty, it may lack support for audio devices.
With Bluetooth, the sound is processed digitally, transmitted, and output again in the headphones. This can result in a delay depending on the TV, headphones, and codec. Low-latency codecs or wireless headphones with their own base station can reduce the offset. Both sides must support the same method; otherwise, it will not take effect.
Usually, it is due to the set audio format. If the TV outputs a multi-channel signal, the connected transmitter cannot process it. Switching to PCM in the sound menu ensures that a simple stereo signal is present, which the transmitter can handle.
This depends on the TV. Many devices mute the internal speakers as soon as headphones are connected. Some models allow parallel output in the sound menu. Alternatively, a second output can be used, such as a soundbar via HDMI ARC and a wireless device via the optical output. However, this may result in latency differences.
